Drive gear my summer car
Drive gear my summer car
Engine and Gearbox of the Satsuma car | My Summer Car My Summer Car guide, tips
Last update: Wednesday, August 21, 2019
In this section of our car construction guide to My Summer Car, you will find a step-by-step instructions on how to build an engine. In addition, we explain how to build a gearbox and connect it to the engine. We advise you what keys are needed for this and what is the correct order of joining parts to make the car engine work properly in My Summer Car.
Installation of the engine takes place in the garage on the stand by the wall. You will find all the parts on the shelves and the floor at the back of the garage, and you should buy the alternator belt and oil filter from the store. Remember that the engine won’t break down if it accidentally falls off. Use the option to rotate it and put it in different positions frequently to get the best possible access to hidden screws. To move the engine, you must always click on the BLOCK section. Place the toolbox on the tabletop for easy and quick access.
Each bearing is held in two nuts of size 9.
It is worthwhile to insert the CAMSHAFT into the block and screw it with two nuts of size 5.
Now it’s time for four PISTONS. Insert them into the round holes in the cylinders of the engine block so that they are adjacent to the crankshaft. Each of them is screwed with two nuts of size 7, visible from the crankshaft side.
Then place the HEAD GASKET on the block without any screwing. The CYLINDER HEAD comes on top of it, which you screw with ten size 7 nuts.
A longitudinal part called ROCKER SHAFT has to be attached to the head. Screw it with five 8mm nuts.
Exposed valves are covered with the ROCKER COVER. Tighten them with six 7mm nuts.
Attach the exhaust manifold to the header of the engine. Tighten it with five 8mm nuts.
Attach the CARBURATOR to the exhaust manifold.
Screw it with four 8mm nuts.
Using the same key as the screw (10mm), use the mouse roll slowly until the marking on the wheel is exactly the same as the marking on the engine block.
Now you can put on the TIMING CHAIN and cover the mechanism with the TIMING COVER, which you can tighten with six 6mm screws.
Mount the CRANKSHAFT PULLEY on the cover and tighten it with one screw of 11 mm size.
Install the WATER PUMP above it and screw it with five 7mm nuts.
Mount WATER PUMP PULLEY on the pump and fix it with four 7mm screws.
Rotate the engine with the wider side to yourself. Install the DISTRIBUTOR ignition device on it. Use a screwdriver to tighten this part. Later you will have to adjust the ignition this way.
Mount the FUEL PUMP next to it and screw it on with two 7mm nuts.
Insert the spark plugs into the four holes in the head of the engine. You will find them in a sparkplug box that can be purchased in the store. Open the box with the F key each time to remove one spark plug. You can screw them to the block with a special SPARKPLUG WRENCH key.
Place the alternator belt on the prepared parts. Stay in hands-on mode. Tighten the roller to its maximum position, then «unscrew» it with two clicks of the mouse roller and tighten the screw with a screwdriver.
Attach an OIL PAN to the bottom of the engine block. Secure it with eight 7mm and one 13mm nuts, which acts as a drain when replacing the oil. Make sure that it is tightened as much as possible.
Rotate the motor block to the smaller side, and attach the ENGINE PLATE.
Install the FLYWHEEL. Secure it with six 7mm bolts.
Connect the three clutch parts together without any screws: CLUTCH COVER PLATE, CLUTCH DISC.
Mount the prepared set on the flywheel and tighten it with six 6mm screws.
Attach the STARTER and secure it with two 7mm nuts.
It’s time to install the GEARBOX. Attach a huge element to the engine block and screw it on with six 7mm screws and one 10mm screw.
Mount the DRIVE GEAR to the gearbox and tighten it with seven 6mm screws.
This is it! The complex engine is ready to be installed in the car.
Tuning
This is a general community written tuning guide to aggregate all the tunable Satsuma parts and give advice on best performing settings
Many of the vehicle components can be modified to increase performance or economy of the Satsuma. Some tuning jobs can be easily done by the player, others require more patience and skill. Also, some tuning jobs can be done by Fleetari, for a price. Be warned, incorrectly tuning your Satsuma can cause damage to your dignity and to the condition of your components. Like most activities in the game, it is advised to make a save before you begin to tinker with your precious Satsuma.
The Satsuma can be specifically tuned to suit the preferred drive style of the player. Though a car tuned for drag racing will not perform well at rallying, and a car tuned for rallying will not perform well on overall speed.
By following guides below you will achieve at least the same level of tuning as Fleetari provides with his «motor tuning» service on the parts he a tune. Each tunable component is represented by internal variable that has upper and lower limit and a constant that is subtracted or added to this variable every tune «step». Because of how the game internally doing float arithmetic, you’ll actually get slightly different results for each tune «position» depending on from which internal tune value you have started doing tuning «steps». Generally, if you aim for higher internal tune value for given tune «position», you must first hit lower limit for tune variable so this will be your starting tune value. Respectively, start from upper tune variable limit if you aim for lowest tune value for given tune «position». This game mechanic quirk is taken into account in guides below.
Contents
Tunable and modifiable components [ ]
Alternator belt [ ]
The alternator belt must be adjusted correctly, otherwise, it may come loose or snap, causing you to buy another one from Teimo’s shop. The belt can be adjusted by loosening adjustment bar screw with flat-head screwdriver and moving alternator with the scroll wheel in hand mode: scroll down to move the alternator left (loosening the belt) and scroll up to move right (tightening the belt). If the belt is too loose, it will make a horrible «whirring» squeak. The belt should be as loose as possible without «whirring». To tune it this way, first, with engine turned off, loosen the screw and move the alternator to the far right position. Next, turn on the engine and move the alternator to the left so «whirring» starts. Then, slowly, tick by tick, move alternator to the right, until the «whirring» noise cannot be heard any longer. Once done, tighten the alternator back with the screw.
Another quick and dirty way (you don’t even need to turn on the engine) is to move alternator to the far right and then two ticks back to the left. This sets it as loose as the belt can be without whirring.
The tightness of the belt will not actually affect performance, but the best tightness is just after you can’t hear the whirring anymore as this will give the belt the longest lifespan. The belt will eventually break anyway, but that cannot be avoided.
Stock and Twin carburators [ ]
13.1 is generally the best agreed value for absolute performance, as it will provide better low-end torque and flatten out the performance curve without lowering high-end torque too much. Anywhere between 14.0 and 14.5 is best for general driving, the performance difference is noticeable but the car will consume less fuel and parts may last longer. Any higher than 14.8 will reduce performance, although an AFR of
16 may be considered most economical. Fleetari will set AFR to 14.7 when choosing «engine adjustment» service and to 13.0 when choosing «motor tuning».
For more advanced performance tuning, this can be combined with a 950 PSI nitrous oxide injection and a very skewed distribution timing, allowing the car to reach peak performance with an AFR of roughly 12. This will greatly reduce the longevity of engine parts, however, and therefore requires much more effort to maintain. Small changes in temperature can greatly affect this rich tuning and you will begin to see performance loss almost immediately outside of idle temperatures.
For tuning without the ratio gauge, see here.
Racing carburators [ ]
Camshaft gear [ ]
This is one of the most essential components that needs to be adjusted for the car to function properly. You will notice two little notches or marks cut into the gear and a component to the bottom right. These notches need to be aligned by using the 10 mm spanner on the gear bolt once it has been properly tightened. Scrolling up (like further tightening the bolt) will rotate gear clockwise, but scrolling down will just loosen the bolt.
The only «optimum» setting is to have both notches facing each other. Anything outside of this will result in a messy, uncoordinated engine.
Rocker shaft [ ]
Distributor [ ]
The distributor is an easily missable opportunity to tune your car’s performance. Tuning distributor adjusts ignition timing, advancing or retarding it. To adjust, loosen distributor hold-down screw with flat-head screwdriver and, using the scroll wheel in hand mode, rotate distributor clockwise or counterclockwise. Rotating distributor clockwise (scrolling down) advances timing. Rotating distributor counterclockwise (scrolling up) retards timing. The engine will produce a high chirping sound (different sound from bad rockers tuning, the sound of pinging) if the distributor is too advanced.
For absolute Japanese 4-cylinder performance gains, enrich your Satsuma with nitrous oxide and retard your distributor by a large amount. The reason for retarding your dist is due to the vast increase of pressure in the engine during enrichment (taking a N2O shot) which causes the pistons to ping, damaging your pistons and losing performance. Repeat the same procedure of tuning distributor while running Satsuma boosted to tune distributor to be used with N2O kit. The downside of this, as you can imagine, is less performance when un-boosted because of ignition timing being retarded.
Tachometer [ ]
With our knowledge of the Satsuma, we can assume that adding more dials and gauges will increase performance. Though this has not been proven, it sure does look cooler. The racing tachometer will provide a visual gauge of Satsuma RPM and it has a gear light which can be adjusted to light up when you should change gear. This can be tuned to your personal driving tastes.
A small knob labeled «shift adjust» can be found on the front right on the dial, altering this will change the RPM at which the light will power on. There is no visual guide on what the current RPM is set to, one will need hold the engine RPM where desired and tune the dial to come on just as it hits your preferred mark.
For those yearning for absolute performance (!!), you will also need the Extra gauges, as this will bring the car closer to mid ’90s Japanese max-attack stylings. Godzilla will look down upon you in favor, granting you an extra few mustache hairs and make all your 1 /4 mile drag strips slightly downhill.
Final gear ratio [ ]
Fleetari Repair Shop has an option to change the Satsuma’s final drive gear ratio. There are a total of 6 options, including the default.
| Ratio | Notes |
|---|---|
| 3.700 | Slowest acceleration, fastest top speed |
| 3.900 | Good for highway driving |
| 4.110 | Slightly slower acceleration, faster top speed |
| 4.286 | Stock ratio, decent all round |
| 4.415 | Noticeably faster acceleration, lower top speed |
| 4.625 | Fastest acceleration, lowest top speed |
Considering a tire size of 155/82 R12, 8000 RPM in-game rev limit (with racing carburators and steel headers) and the gearing from a 1974 Datsun 100A as seen in the page here, the top speed in each gear and RPM drop after gear change can be seen in the charts below:
| Ratio | 3.700 | 3.900 | 4.110 | 4.286 | 4.415 | 4.625 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1st gear (3.673:1) | 62.14 | 58.96 | 55.94 | 53.65 | 52.08 | 49.71 |
| 2nd gear (2.217:1) | 102.96 | 97.68 | 92.69 | 88.88 | 86.28 | 82.36 |
| 3rd gear (1.448:1) | 157.63 | 149.55 | 141.91 | 136.08 | 132.11 | 126.11 |
| 4th gear (1.000:1) | 228.25 | 216.55 | 205.48 | 197.05 | 191.29 | 182.6 |
| Reverse gear (-4.093:1) | -55.77 | -52.91 | -50.20 | -46.74 | -45.82 | -44.61 |
Note: Negative speed means the car is moving backwards. Always come to a complete stop before engaging the reverse gear.
| Gear change | RPM drop (%) | RPM after change (8k RPM) | RPM after change (3k RPM) |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1-2 | 40% | 4829 RPM | 1811 RPM |
| 2-3 | 35% | 5225 RPM | 1959 RPM |
| 3-4 | 31% | 5525 RPM | 2072 RPM |
| 4-R | 100% (stalled) | 0 RPM (stalled) | 0 RPM (stalled) |
Note: Early downshifting might cause major engine failure. The maximum RPM you can downshift in a set gear is the RPM after the gear change. For example: If you want to downshift from 4th to 3rd, You must be at maximum 5525 RPM in 4th, otherwise pistons and main bearings will be found on the road. Be warned!
The Rally enthusiast will prefer a higher final drive ratio, as they will spend little time on straights, not enough time to reach the maximum speed and therefore prefer a faster acceleration to whatever speed they can hit. It’s not long before that next «right 1 banked caution».
Those who prefer highway driving, fuel economy or want to hit the fastest possible speed will perhaps be intrigued by the lower final drive ratios; these allow higher speeds even if it does take a while.
N2O kit [ ]
The nitrous oxide kit is only for those wanting absolute performance and don’t mind the huge increase in part wear and maintenance that come with it. The N2O kit is NOT designed for rallying or any other endurance driving styles unless you don’t mind insane temperatures, terrible A/F ratio, having your pistons repaired often and the possibility of a broken engine block. Though some of this may be mitigated by lowering pressure, shooting only in straights and when temperatures are looking good.
Tuning is very simple. There is a valve on the N2O tank fitted inside the boot, this allows you to change the pressure (volume) of injected nitrous oxide while boosting. The generally agreed optimum is 950 PSI, coming from real-world values, though if one is willing to thoroughly test other values a better PSI may be found for your particular tuning. The Satsuma may need its distributor and A/F ratio adjusting if you increase or decrease the pressure; and if the bottle isn’t full, it may not be able to achieve the desired pressure until refilled.
Boosting will drastically alter your A/F ratio, temperatures and required distributor timings. The following considerations should be taken into account:
Rally suspension [ ]
Both the rally shocks and struts can be tuned for a softer or stiffer bump and rebound tolerance. Most drivers will prefer their suspension to be stiffer than normal, although others «enjoy» a bouncy and borderline undriveable driveable car like popular 1970s American imports.
Tuning is done with a screwdriver. Blue screws adjust the bump, or the compression of the suspension and red screws adjust the rebound, or the suspension extending back again. Tightening (scrolling up) makes the bump/rebound stiffer, making the suspension hard. Untightening (scrolling down) does the reverse: the suspension will be weak, eventually causing the car to become a trampoline on uneven terrain as the kenetic energy keeps building.
The general goal for all Satsuma styles is to have as stiff suspension as possible, but without it losing ground contact from bumps. Stiffer suspension most noticeably increases weight control, movement responsiveness and reduces power lost to the system. Even Rally drivers can benefit from stiffer suspension as tighter weight transfers will help avoid sliding off track and any increase in responsiveness can help sprint times. However; they must still have soft enough compression and rebound that the tyres stay touching the ground for as much of the track as possible, as soon as they leave the ground you’ve lost control and power.
Bump compression [ ]
Bump is the compression and absorbing of kinetic energy from the coils. Generally this will be as stiff as possible while avoiding the car flinging upwards after hitting a bump. This value is very subjective and each driver must test to match their driving styles. It’s easy to tell when your tuning is way off as the suspension will no longer be installed after coming off the track. Tarmac attack lunatics will benefit more from bump stiffness than Suomi rally pro, however; due to the height of the Rally suspension set, it can lead to lift off around long corners as the center of mass is too high. If at any point you start seeing more lift off or air time on bumps; lower the stiffness.
| Cause | Effect |
|---|---|
| Bump too soft | • Weight shifting is slow and heavy • Acceleration and braking responsiveness decreased • Car becomes bouncy |
| Bump too hard | • Loss of traction over sharp bumps • Lift off in long corners |
Rebound compression [ ]
The opposite of bump, this is the extension of the dampners back to their original position as the energy is displaced. This must always be higher than the bumb compression otherwise the absorbed energy will cause the wheel to bounce uncontrollably as the energy is released. Having this setting stiff increases power responsiveness and helps avoid bouncy weight harming its controlled momentum, but having this too stiff will cause loss of control over even small road bumps which harms acceleration, braking and drastic reduction in cornering ability. Arguably this setting can have more of a drastic affect and bump for rally drivers, and bumpy tarmac like Peräjärvi town.
| Cause | Effect |
|---|---|
| Rebound too soft | • Bouncy uncontrollable mess • Unpredictable over and understeer |
| Rebound too hard | • Loss of traction over sharp bumps • Car becomes bogged down and sloppy with rapid terrain changes |
Wiki patrons are encouraged to improve this page with any advanced knowledge on tuning for performance/economy. Not all real-life performance recommendations apply to MSC so testing is advised before writing a huge section and realising it’s bollocks.
Drive gear my summer car
My Summer Car
Lower number, higher top speed but slower acceleration. Higher number, lower top speed but faster acceleration.
Lower number, higher top speed but slower acceleration. Higher number, lower top speed but faster acceleration.
How does it effect acceleration when the gear ratio is only for the final gear?
What ratio would you suggest for the rally? I was thinking 3.9 or 4.1 cause I can’t get into 4th in most of the rally track. I think if I wasn’t using a keyboard I could, or maybe with more practice, I will reach 4th gear.
Unfortunately there’s no aftermarket gearbox yet.
gears and diffs work the same way as far as ratios go.
The gearbox lets you change the ratios while on the go. The diff has a static ratio and also help take the power and put it to the wheels.
TL;DR
Changing a gear’s ratio only changes that one gear.
Changing the final drive ratio changes all the gears
How does it effect acceleration when the gear ratio is only for the final gear?
What ratio would you suggest for the rally? I was thinking 3.9 or 4.1 cause I can’t get into 4th in most of the rally track. I think if I wasn’t using a keyboard I could, or maybe with more practice, I will reach 4th gear.
You don’t understand it. It’s not a «gear» such as 1st, 2nd etc, it’s gear as a sprocket, a cog. It transfers the power to your half shafts, and ratio means how much rpm your halfshafts produce compared to engine rpm. Say with 3.7 ratio, you’re getting 1 revolution of halfshafts for every 3.7 revs of crankshaft(I explain it in a simplified manner though). So with higher ratio, you’ll take off easier, but you’ll run out of room for speed sooner as engine is not producing enough rpm, and vise versa.
gears and diffs work the same way as far as ratios go.
The gearbox lets you change the ratios while on the go. The diff has a static ratio and also help take the power and put it to the wheels.
TL;DR
Changing a gear’s ratio only changes that one gear.
Changing the final drive ratio changes all the gears
Drive gear my summer car
My Summer Car
Lot of people don’t know how to build the car properly, so here’s a guide, from the MSC wikia.
If you do exactly like it is written, your car should be running perfectly.
Before beginning, you should go to the shop and build food and beer. Take the Gas Can with you and fill it with gasoline at the shop.
Buy a fan belt, 3 clutch/brake fluids, 1 motor oil and 1 coolant.
Crankshaft to Block
Crankshaft Main Bearings-6x9mm
Head Gasket to Block
Camshaft-2x5mm (Goes in a hole on left side of engine.)
Alternator-1x7mm, 1x10mm, 1x Screwdriver (Put the Fan Belt on before you tighten the Alternator.)
Clutch Disk to Clutch Cover Plate
Clutch Pressure Plate to Clutch Disk
Oil drain plug 1x13mm
Motor Hoist to Block-2x10mm
(Lower the hoist till it is near the Block, tighten the bolts to attach.)
(There are 18 total settings for the valves. The nuts will spin infinitely, but scroll down 18 times to the bottom, then scroll up to desired setting. 1-6 tick, 7-13 do not tick, 14-18 tick. 7 is the preferred setting.)
Air Filter-2x6mm (You might want to wait until the engine is in the car and the hood is installed to install this.)
Move the Motor Hoist to the Engine Bay, Lower it carefully and when it is in the 3 correct position bolts should appear at the Motor mounts for you to tighten with a 11mm spanner.
Steering Rods-1x12mm each (Wait to tighten until Struts are installed.)
Disc Brakes-1x14mm each (14mm Bolt Shared with Halfshafts, install Halfshafts before you tighten.)
Halfshafts-3x9mm, 1x14mm each (Bolt Shared with Disc Brake.)
Struts-4x9mm,3x10mm, 1x12mm (12mm Bolt Shared with Steering Rods.)
Steering Rod Adjust-1x14mm each (Eyeball it the best you can for now.)
Trailing Arms-2x12mm each
Shock absorbers-1x12mm,2x6mm each
Drum Brakes-1x14mm each
Wheels-4x13mm each(You may want to pick the chassis up with the forklift from the side now as it tends to slide around otherwise.)
Spark Plugs (No spanner required, but must be tightened.)
Oil Filter (Same as Spark Plugs, must be tightened.)
Clutch Master Cylinder-1x9mm, 2x8mm
Brake Master Cylinder-1x9mm, 2x8mm
Brake line (at wheel, one each)-4x7mm
Fuel Tank-7x11mm,1x12mm (at fuel line)
RPM Gauge (or Clock if you prefer, attaches to Dashboard Meters)-2x7mm
Driver/Passenger Seat-4x9mm each
Exhaust Pipe-3x7mm (This can be a pain, you will need to take the chassis off the forklift for this. Jack up one side of the car with the floor jack, attach the Exhaust Pipe near the handbrake. Two bolts at the header, one in the rear.)
Back Panel or Subwoofer Panel
Hood-4x6mm (You’ll have to remove the Air Filter to install this)
Easy way: «unscrew» carburettor 30 times (scroll down), and then scroll up 24 times. It may not give the best performance results, but it will still run without any problems.
Hope it helps for people who don’t know ♥♥♥♥ about cars. (including myself)
Drive gear my summer car
nope you are wrong. Let me explain. Short gear ration does not mean ALWAYS faster acceleration. A short 1st gear for example can lead you to 30km/h in 3 secs then you have to change gear (more or less 1.5sec) and then going into 2nd gear till 60km/h in another 3 secs. So you can choose to go for a long 1st gear that will bring you in 4.5 secs to 60km/h.
So let’s think about this.
With a short gear ration you have almost «full power» at every rpm range because it will be easy for the engine to pull all the power to the wheels, but that means also a thing: more power to the wheels, more wheelspin/understeer.
With a long gear ratio you can have higher top speed for sure but the engine response will not be immediate in every gear at every range, but you don’t have full power always on the wheels, so it mean less wheelspin/understeer
The gear ratio determine how the car wil behave in some situation like: midturn acceleration, wheelspin, top speed, acceleration, braking.
Since i drive with a controller i like to have a long gear ratio in order to not have a lot of understeer problems and to get out of ditches more easily, so i use 3.900, but if was using my steering wheel probably i would try 4.115 because i’s a bit longer of the standard and with a fine carburettor tuning you can have all the power in midragne with low wheelspin
nope you are wrong. Let me explain. Short gear ration does not mean ALWAYS faster acceleration. A short 1st gear for example can lead you to 30km/h in 3 secs then you have to change gear (more or less 1.5sec) and then going into 2nd gear till 60km/h in another 3 secs. So you can choose to go for a long 1st gear that will bring you in 4.5 secs to 60km/h.
So let’s think about this.
With a short gear ration you have almost «full power» at every rpm range because it will be easy for the engine to pull all the power to the wheels, but that means also a thing: more power to the wheels, more wheelspin/understeer.
With a long gear ratio you can have higher top speed for sure but the engine response will not be immediate in every gear at every range, but you don’t have full power always on the wheels, so it mean less wheelspin/understeer
The gear ratio determine how the car wil behave in some situation like: midturn acceleration, wheelspin, top speed, acceleration, braking.
Since i drive with a controller i like to have a long gear ratio in order to not have a lot of understeer problems and to get out of ditches more easily, so i use 3.900, but if was using my steering wheel probably i would try 4.115 because i’s a bit longer of the standard and with a fine carburettor tuning you can have all the power in midragne with low wheelspin
Drive gear my summer car
My Summer Car
Fluids are 100% full? I had this same issue, turns out the clutch master cylinder was too low.
I don’t think one of the fluid containers was 100% full
in fact, I think it was even leaking fluid somehow
I have tightened all the bolts as much as possible though
Have you checked your wheels middle bolts?
the wheel bolts are all in as tight as possible
I must have a brake fluid leak somewhere but I’m not sure how to fix that
I’ll drive to the store and buy out all the liquid and try anything suggested
you sure you tighten all 3 bolts from gear linkage? I did only 2 first so had those problems.
I am having trouble getting the car moving. I put it into gear but it doesn’t move. I have fluids in it and everything is assembled. The only thing I can think of is the brakeline/clutch nuts for which I am clueless on
I am having trouble getting the car moving. I put it into gear but it doesn’t move. I have fluids in it and everything is assembled. The only thing I can think of is the brakeline/clutch nuts for which I am clueless on
I think auto clutch is causing this, i had bound clutch to LShift so i can use it manually. just make sure to rev it up enough to not stall when you drop it in gear.
How to Build a Working Car in My Summer Car
Amistech Games released My Summer Car late last year, and quickly reached cult-hit status. In this simulation game, players must try to survive the Finnish summer and build their own car from various parts. The goal of the game is to persevere through harsh road conditions, while also being able to maintain your car’s integrity.
Building Your First Working Car in My Summer Car
Prepare before you try to build.
Since it will probably take a good bit of time both in and out of game to complete your first car, you will want to stock up on as many resources as you possibly can ahead of time. Necronomicron advised to first gather as much money as possible so that you can buy a fan belt, motor oil, and coolant.
All these things will be essential to get your car up and running, so it’s better to have them on hand before you start building.
Necromicon gives the following essential advice:
«. save the game before buying stuff, because your bag with goods will unpack on game load. It is easier to move just one bag rather than 20 items to your home.
I would recommend to buy everything on the left side of the store (which will cost 1,995 mk). However, you will need at least [one] fan belt, three brake/clutch fluids, one motor oil, [and] one coolant.»
He also suggests buying food and other supplies, since this will take awhile to build, and mother nature waits for no one.
| Part | Price |
|---|---|
| Fan Belt | 295 mk |
| Brake/Clutch Fluid | 35 mk |
| Motor Oil | 149 mk |
| Coolant | 195 mk |
Step One: Work on the Front Suspension
The first thing you need to do is jack the car up so you can work on the frame and underpinnings of the vehicle. To raise the body:
Once you’ve got the car jacked up, head over to the tool box. To use the tool box, hover your cursor to its opening and press «Use». You’ll need to come back here often to switch out tools as necessary. To get to a specific tool, press 2, then click on whichever one you need. Once you have it, press 1 to hide that tool.
Now it’s time to work on the front part of your car’s frame. Here’s the order in which you need to attach your parts (and what screws or bolts you need to use):
Step 2: Work on the Rear Suspension
The next major step in this process is putting together the rear suspension. So you’ll want to lower your frame and remove the floor jack. Move it to the rear bumper of the car, then jack the vehicle back up.
Once it’s up, you’ll need to add more parts in the following order:
Step 3: Put Together the Engine
Now that you’ve got your rear suspension built, lower the floor jack and remove it. Push your car into the garage where you’ll complete the next several steps.
For right now, though, you’re going to set the car aside and focus on building your engine. Set the engine block on a spacious work table and build it out as follows:
Step 4: Install the Engine
Now comes a tricky part. You need to get the engine you just built into the car by hoisting it. Grab the hoist and use it to lift up the engine. Be careful, though! The engine can detach from the hoist if you aren’t paying attention.
Once you’ve got the engine aligned properly, unscrew it from the hoist. Then raise the hoist again and put it away. Now you’re ready to start working on the guts of the car that will make it run!
Step 5: Work On Everything Under the Hood
It’s time to dig deep into your car building process and start making all the internal connections that will turn this hunk of metal from a collection of parts to a fully running vehicle. Here’s the order in which you need to build everything:
The nuts you’re looking for on each wheel look like this:
Step 6: Build Out the Car Interior
Finally! You’ve got a car that should be able to run on its own. But that’s pretty useless without a comfortable interior. So now it’s time to build out the inside of your summer ride.
Step 7: Work on the Car Exterior
Now that you have seats and a steering wheel to make your car much more driveable, you’ll need to add all the external features like doors and headlights that will keep you rolling along.
Step 8: Adjust Your Wheels
You’re almost ready to go! But before you start zooming around, you need to make sure your wheels are up to snuff. The orientation of your front wheels is probably pretty messed up by now, so you’ll need to adjust the nut on the inside of each wheel (14mm).
Step 9: Paint Your Car
Time to customize your sweet summer ride! There are 12 glossy and 1 matte paints. So pick which one you want to use and pick it up. Press the «Use» button to paint your car with that color.
Step 10: Start Your Engine!
You’re getting so close to vehicular freedom that you can almost taste it. But you have adjust your fan belt and test everything out to make sure it’s running smoothly before you hit the road.
When you do this, the fan belt may squeak. Even if it doesn’t, you should adjust it by following the steps below:
Step 11: Test Drive
Finally, the moment you’ve been waiting for. Time to see if your car can actually go anywhere.
Once your engine is heated, push in the choke and drive! Hopefully everything is running smoothly and you don’t experience any sort of breakdown.
Step 12: Register Your Car
The last step in getting your car road-ready is going through a car inspection to make sure that vehicle isn’t a safety risk to your or anyone else. You can have your car inspected for 325 mk.
Once it passes inspection, register your plates. Now you’re ready to go! Drive your car to your heart’s content.
Step 13: Upgrade as Necessary
This last step is optional, but we’re willing to bet that you’ll take advantage of it at some point or another. Once you’ve built a base car, you can invest in upgrades that will pimp out your ride and make you the talk of your Finnish town. If you want to buy everything, you’ll need almost 30,000 mk. But if you only want to invest in a few pieces here and there, below is a full list of each part you can upgrade and how much it costs:
| Upgraded Part | Price |
|---|---|
| Window Grille | 219 mk |
| Rear Spoiler 2 | 329 mk |
| Rear Spoiler | 199 mk |
| Front Spoiler | 249 mk |
| Fender Flares and Fender Flare Spoiler | 1195 mk |
| Wheels Rally | 3249 mk |
| Wheels Spoke | 1519 mk |
| Wheels Hayosiko | 1575 mk |
| Wheels Racing | 3615 mk |
| Windows Black Wrap | 299 mk |
| Sport Steering Wheel | 349 mk |
| Dash Cover Zebra | 295 mk |
| Dash Cover Leopard | 295 mk |
| Dash Cover Plush | 295 mk |
| Seat Cover Zebra | 139 mk |
| Seat Cover Leopard | 139 mk |
| Seat Cover Plush | 139 mk |
| Wheel Cover Zebra | 49 mk |
| Wheel Cover Leopard | 49 mk |
| Fuel Mixture Gauge | 549 mk |
| Extra Gauges | 299 mk |
| Tachometer | 829 mk |
| CD Player | 1395 mk |
| Subwoofers | 695 mk |
| Steel Headers | 649 mk |
| Twin Carburators | 1750 mk |
| Racing Exhaust | 429 mk |
| Racing Muffler | 169 mk |
| Racing Radiator | 1215 mk |
| Racing Harness | 645 mk |
| Bucket Seats | 5095 mk |
| Rally Steering Wheel | 895 mk |
That wraps up our guide to building a working car in My Summer Car! Now that you can roam freely around the roads of your small Finland town, be sure to check out the rest of our My Summer Car guides for even more tips and tricks:
Drive gear my summer car
My Summer Car
you must enter the driving mode and click to the left zone of the horn. keep pressing until the car starts (it’s a diesel)
you must enter the driving mode and click to the left zone of the horn. keep pressing until the car starts (it’s a diesel)
hmm i turned of handbrake and started car but it wont move
hmm i turned of handbrake and started car but it wont move
make sure you are in driving mode pressing return. then you have to put first gear pressing g and turn of the handbrake
make sure you are in driving mode pressing return. then you have to put first gear pressing g and turn of the handbrake
thx alot when to options and found that but thanks anyways
I’ve gotten the van on and everything set up (first gear, handbrake off) and I still can’t get it to move anywhere
Please, do tell me you don’t have a liscence to drive!
This game is indeed easier if you actually know how to drive cars, tractors and trucks. 🙂
Glow diesel engine (one turn of the ignition) for a minute or so (until the spiral thing lamp on the dashboard stops glowing), turn the ignition again while keeping the clutch pressed and giving it some throttle. turn off parking brake/hand brake, put vehicle into correct gear, and drive. Just like in real life. 🙂 (Unless you in real life have an electric car, in which your life may be so much easier and efficient than mid-nineties rural Finland.)
Drive gear my summer car
Release date
Engine sound
Extra sound(s)
Seatbelt?
Plate
Top speed
Engine power
1146 NM (845 lb-ft) @ 1250 RPM
Engine type
Weight
Gearbox
Tank size
Fuel
consumption
The rear view of the Gifu.
The Gifu’s interior.
The Gifu is a dirty and worn vacuum truck that the player owns after your Uncle gives you it. The player can use it for septic tank pumping jobs. It has a 6×2 taglift chassis with a worn 14L turbocharged diesel engine that produces 390 hp and a myriad of fumes. It is also equipped with some accessories, such as beacons, a sun visor that reads «Suomi Finland,» some Gifu branded front mud flaps and a fully functional sleeper cabin. At the start of the game, it’s located at the waste processing plant. Before you are able to drive the Gifu and receive septic job calls, you must get the keys from Uncle Kesseli after he loses his license.
The truck’s speedometer also has a clock. This is because the speedometer is based on an analog tachograph that logs speed, distance and driver’s activities on a round chart. The chart is not accessible in the game.
The truck has an extremely poor fuel economy because of its old and inefficient engine. It is expensive and time consuming to refuel it (≈400 mk from an empty tank using diesel and ≈10 real-time minutes of waiting). Consider carrying the diesel canister inside the cabin in case of emergencies. The fuel gauge reading is incorrect. The position of the needle is correct but the text on the dial is wrong, when the needle is half way (horizontal) thats 50% tank of fuel. The «1» marking and the «0» marking is correct however.
Contents
Origin [ ]
The Gifu is based on a Finnish Sisu M-series truck (specifically an M-162 from the year 1970), and the name references the logo design of the Finnish Sisu candy. The Sisu candy typeface uses old Fraktur, the capital and lowercase S letters of which look like a G and an f to readers of the modern Latin alphabet.
The engine in the game is based on the 405 horsepower 14L Cummins NTE-400 as suggested by the Steam trading card; however, it creates a noise similar to the 12,200cc Rolls-Royce Eagle 320. Both of these were available for Sisu M-161 trucks at the time.
Special functions [ ]
The truck has several switches and levers on the dashboard that control different functions, some of which are unique to the Gifu.
Differential lock [ ]
Lock/unlocks the differential, which will force the drive wheels on either side to spin at the same speed. Locking the differential is useful for driving off-road or getting unstuck. However, it will also make turning very difficult and increase fuel consumption, so it is advised not to use it for general driving.
Lift rear axle/Tag-lift [ ]
Lifts the rearmost axle up, which increases drivability and fuel economy. Lowering it will increase traction and provide better weight distribution. It is recommended to lower the rear axle while under a heavy load to increase stability, and raise it when empty. By default, the axle is already lifted.
Hydraulic pump [ ]
Toggles the septic tank pump. The pumping efficiency is based on the RPM of the engine. The higher the RPM, the faster the pump will operate. You can use the hand throttle to increase the RPM while outside the cab.
Hand Throttle [ ]
Increases engine idle RPM. Works the same way as the Kekmet’s hand throttle. Pulling the lever out will increase the idle RPM, pushing it in will decrease it. Useful for maximizing hydraulic pump efficiency.
Operating the truck [ ]
Switch on the ignition and wait for the red glow plug light (coil symbol) to turn off. Make sure it’s in neutral before turning over. Occasionally, the truck may refuse to start. It will idle for less than a second then stall. Make sure you have fuel, then keep trying until it fires up successfully.
The red air pressure light accompanied with a buzzer means the air pressure is low, rendering the brakes ineffective. Build air pressure by revving the engine or using the hand throttle until the buzzer stops. Using the foot brake or parking brake too often will cause air pressure loss and should be used in moderation. The air tanks are fitted with valves that discharge excess air pressure but can cause a low pressure event if the brakes are applied immediately afterward. In addition, the air tanks will gradually drain whenever the engine is not running, presumably due to a leak in the system.
The yellow axle lift light means the rear axle is lifted. This reduces fuel consumption and makes handling lighter when the tank is empty. The truck should be driven with the axle raised when the tank is empty. Lower the axle (yellow light off) while hauling sewage to support the heavier load and increase stability. Lifting the axle is useful for hauling cars to Fleetari. Lifting the axle puts more weight on the drive wheels, therefore increasing traction.
The yellow «L» light means the truck is in low range, which is good for low-speed maneuvers and climbing hills. Hit R (by default) to switch between high and low range (this has no effect on pumping or air pressure.)
When stuck or driving off-road (e.g. on grass,) the differential can be locked for increased traction, but steering/turning will be more difficult. It is not recommended to lock the differential when driving normally.
H-Shifter Rev Matching [ ]
This section of the article only applies to those that use a 6-speed gear stick and a non-auto clutch, such as the one used with the Logitech G29.
Rev matching is a technique used to make smooth gear transitions when shifting, it ensures that the vehicle’s gearbox avoids any stress-loads and premature wear (i.e., a burnt clutch.) This technique is required to shift the Gifu’s unsynchronized transmission while using an H-shifter. To successfully upshift the Gifu, the engine speed must match the wheel speed in order to create a smooth transition. You need to manually match them through effective use of the throttle and shifting at the correct times. It is recommended to start out in 2L, because upshifting from 1L could be difficult. The gears usually run between 1000-1500 Rpm.
Downshifting can only be accomplished at certain speeds if you want to avoid stalling or grinding gears. Most of the time you will have to double-clutch to successfully change to a lower gear, as the area in the rev-range for downshifting is very slim. To double clutch, shift out of the gear you’re currently in and into neutral, release the clutch, tap the throttle, re-engage the clutch, and shift into the lower gear. If successful, you will have a smooth gear change. If not, you will not be able to shift into any gear until your wheel-speed is low enough (around 30 km/h). Ensure that your engine speed (RPMs) is low enough (not too low!) before a downshift, or you will not be able to shift back into gear. In real-life circumstances, you can cause serious damage to the gearbox if your downshifts are not smooth.
Drive gear my summer car
nope you are wrong. Let me explain. Short gear ration does not mean ALWAYS faster acceleration. A short 1st gear for example can lead you to 30km/h in 3 secs then you have to change gear (more or less 1.5sec) and then going into 2nd gear till 60km/h in another 3 secs. So you can choose to go for a long 1st gear that will bring you in 4.5 secs to 60km/h.
So let’s think about this.
With a short gear ration you have almost «full power» at every rpm range because it will be easy for the engine to pull all the power to the wheels, but that means also a thing: more power to the wheels, more wheelspin/understeer.
With a long gear ratio you can have higher top speed for sure but the engine response will not be immediate in every gear at every range, but you don’t have full power always on the wheels, so it mean less wheelspin/understeer
The gear ratio determine how the car wil behave in some situation like: midturn acceleration, wheelspin, top speed, acceleration, braking.
Since i drive with a controller i like to have a long gear ratio in order to not have a lot of understeer problems and to get out of ditches more easily, so i use 3.900, but if was using my steering wheel probably i would try 4.115 because i’s a bit longer of the standard and with a fine carburettor tuning you can have all the power in midragne with low wheelspin
nope you are wrong. Let me explain. Short gear ration does not mean ALWAYS faster acceleration. A short 1st gear for example can lead you to 30km/h in 3 secs then you have to change gear (more or less 1.5sec) and then going into 2nd gear till 60km/h in another 3 secs. So you can choose to go for a long 1st gear that will bring you in 4.5 secs to 60km/h.
So let’s think about this.
With a short gear ration you have almost «full power» at every rpm range because it will be easy for the engine to pull all the power to the wheels, but that means also a thing: more power to the wheels, more wheelspin/understeer.
With a long gear ratio you can have higher top speed for sure but the engine response will not be immediate in every gear at every range, but you don’t have full power always on the wheels, so it mean less wheelspin/understeer
The gear ratio determine how the car wil behave in some situation like: midturn acceleration, wheelspin, top speed, acceleration, braking.
Since i drive with a controller i like to have a long gear ratio in order to not have a lot of understeer problems and to get out of ditches more easily, so i use 3.900, but if was using my steering wheel probably i would try 4.115 because i’s a bit longer of the standard and with a fine carburettor tuning you can have all the power in midragne with low wheelspin
Источники информации:
- http://my-summer-car.fandom.com/wiki/Tuning
- http://steamcommunity.com/app/516750/discussions/2/282992646965999493/
- http://steamcommunity.com/app/516750/discussions/2/282992646968117272/
- http://steamcommunity.com/app/516750/discussions/2/1843493219429931252/?l=english
- http://steamcommunity.com/app/516750/discussions/2/312265327164825373/
- http://www.gameskinny.com/dujob/how-to-build-a-working-car-in-my-summer-car
- http://steamcommunity.com/app/516750/discussions/2/340412628172674706/
- http://my-summer-car.fandom.com/wiki/Gifu
- http://steamcommunity.com/app/516750/discussions/2/1843493219429931252/